SLOEPMOUCHE --- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- May - Sept, 06

Subject/ Area: Vanuatu – Southern part

 

Dear SSCA,

 

At the speed we cruise, it will take us more than one season to cover Vanuatu! During this past 4 months, we explored the Southern part of Vanuatu: Tanna, Aniwa, Erromango and Efate.

The ultimate cruising guide for Vanuatu is the Rocket Guide (nicknamed Tusker guide, from the first sponsor - www.cruising-vanuatu.com). With charts, aerial photos and sailing directions to most anchorages, you will have no problem making landings.  We also used Bob Tiews & Thalia Hearns Vanuatu cruising guide and Miz Mae’s Vanuatu guide. Those 3 reference guides and previous letters in the SSCA bulletins will help you planning a great time in Vanuatu! CM 93 electronic charts are slightly off so do not rely blindly on them!  At time of writing, 100 vatu (vt) was about $1 US.

 

Tanna:

Having an official port of entry, this island was our first landfall, as cruising NW to see the Northern islands will be easier than the other way around!

Port Resolution:  We arrived in Port Resolution early on Lucky Thursday…lucky because that is the day of the week that the Customs and Immigration officials come the 2 1/2 hour, 4-wheel drive across from Lenakel.  We checked in at no extra cost, and avoided the expense of hiring a transport (2000 vatu RT).  We met Werry, the caretaker of the Port Resolution “yacht club”, donated a weary Belgian flag for his collection, and found out about the volcano visit, tours, and activities. Stanley, the son of the Chief, is responsible for relations with the yachts, and he is the tour guide or coordinator of the tours that yachties decide to do.

Every letter covers the volcano, so we’ll just say that it IS a fantastic experience, we went twice!  The entrance fee for the volcano is up to 2250 Vatu now as the govt decided to tack on VAT!  This area is beautiful, and a fitting introduction to the unique islands of Vanuatu.  The principal village, Irepow, is almost entirely traditional thatched huts constructed of natural materials paneled with different weaves of bamboo or rush.  The paths are lined with tropical flowers and trees like a botanical garden.  Walk through the village to the beautiful white sand beach. There’s a cute thatched “restaurant”, where you can have a meal prepared by Lea, who makes some of the best food of local ingredients.  Our meal was delicious, attractively presented, and certainly a good bargain. Lea loves talking to people.  She is unusually bright and articulate, and strives always to improve and to help herself.  Make prior arrangements with Lea or Werry.  There are many more things to do than the volcano. Dinghy to the base of the cliff on the N side of the bay to see hot water churning and boiling up from the rocks, and a small hot water cascade steaming into the sea.  You can swim close and chose your temperature for a hot soak!  By arrangement, you can see Kastom (Custom, traditional) villagers who still wear the G-string penis shields called nambas do thundering chanting dances under the roots of an immense ancient banyan tree, see firewalking and “magic leaves”, horseback ride to the volcanic plain or the cave at the base of Mt Melon, the highest mountain, or trek 3 hrs each way to the sacred Kefar waterfall, guarded by jungle villagers who believe this fall houses spirits and magical rocks, and who have opened this sacred cascade to visitors only since mid-2005.   

A place we had never heard or read about that’s very unique is Shark’s Bay.  From about June thru about Mar every year, this tiny rock strewn bay plays host to dozens of sharks that wallow around in the shallows and even come up on to the beach with the waves.  We, unfortunately, were there in May, too early.  The Waiwai family, who own the land, are guardians of the bay, and they will tell you the legends their ancestors had about the sharks, the sacred shark stones, and the tabu (taboo) beach.  The newest thing at Shark’s bay, is the Tree House bungalow built about 50ft high in a giant spreading banyan tree.  We scrambled up the “staircase” to the really cute bungalow and saw the smoke bellowing from Mt Yasur, and from another window, Mt Melon.  Marie Pauline prepared us a beautiful lobster lunch accompanied by avocado in season and local fruits and roots.  Stanley or Werry can, with a full day’s notice, arrange for Richard to meet you on the beach near the anchorage and accompany you the 45-50 minutes walk to Shark’s Bay.  Lobster takes advanced notice and settled weather for them to catch them fresh.  The family is really sweet, and anxious to please, someone there can speak English or French.   Even without the sharks, the sea views are breathtaking.

The people of Port Resolution and volcano area are fairly new to tourism as a business and so are still working out some bugs.  Shyer than Fijians, they hesitate to volunteer details, so be sure to ask many questions as to what the total charges are for tours.  We found that the transport, the guide, the guardian of the attraction, and perhaps others each get something for their part in the activity, and sometimes you can be surprised to find out that the price quoted, did not include the cost for every element.  Since their own language of Bislama does not always express things like past, present, and future tense, or connecting or specifying words, sometimes what they think they say is not what you think they said.  This can lead to awkward situations, like thinking transportation is arranged already when in reality they are hoping that when it comes time, they will be able to find one of the few people with vehicles.

 

Black Sands:  Locals told us that when the winds are too rough for boats coming to Lenakel wharf, local boats go up to Black Sand beach, on the northwest side, where it’s calmer.  The approach is hazard free, and except for the rock in the middle close to the beach, which is easily seen since waves break on it, the area is all pure black sand bottom until just before the beach.  We anchored fairly far out in about 35ft, south of the rock, and saw later we could have gone in closer, as the depth stays over 20ft quite close to the beach.  There is still the ubiquitous swell, but not bad for a multi-hull.  Apart from the scenery and the good holding, there is not much to do, and only a very primitive road with almost no traffic. 

 

Evergreen Resort Bay:  While in Lenakel, we met Iaken, Chairman of the Tanna Tourism Association, and Merian (Maryann), also an active member.  There is a small bay that they felt might be a good anchorage for yachts in front of Tanna Evergreen Bungalows, which they run in partnership.  They were keen for us to come with the boat to give our opinion, as they would like to welcome yachts to the resort for drinks, meals, easy transport into Lenakel, and tours to attractions on this side of the island.  We were interested too, thinking that this could be a good alternative to Lenakel Wharf area, which has a bad reputation as an anchorage.  Merian and Sam, the active managers, are very gracious and welcoming. Since the bay is pretty small, we’ll built 2 strong moorings for them. The small bay is protected by reef systems extending from the north and south points, and by some shallow reefs, which almost enclose the bay.  There is still some swell that gets in, but a lot less than Lenakel.  Swelly in strong S winds, good in SE, great in E (even in very strong trades), pretty good in NE. The safest way to enter the bay is to stay well off shore until just in front of the White Grass Resort, easily recognized by the bright pink bougainvillea flowers, and large thatched buildings on the white colored heights. Approach waypoint (S19d26'406-E169d12'979.). From there, proceed to waypoint (S19d26'485-E169d13'217.), which will bring you mid way between the shore reef and an isolated blind breaker reef marked by two hard red fishing buoys.  From there proceed to the new yacht moorings, each with 3 yellow foam floats.( S19d26'589-E169d13'27.) - Complimentary for patrons.  Please check the mooring to ascertain it is well maintained and safe for your vessel! They hope to add another if the response is good.   The bay is otherwise pretty deep for anchoring, 60-70 ft.  Dinghy landing can be tricky with the tidal difference and the uneven hard shore that dries, but they are hoping to make a dingy channel up to the high tide line. 

It’s only 15 min drive to Lenakel if you need to clear in/out or get basic foods, and the airport runway is just at the south end of the bay, making it convenient if people are flying in/out.   

The resort has good basic facilities, good home-cooked meals, a beer and hard liquor bar.  White Grass Resort, a short walk away, has a fancier restaurant and bar, more upscale landscaping, a small pool, and putting greens.  There are many tours and activities on this side of Tanna too.  The Yakel Kastom village, is a real village where the people have chosen to live traditionally, men wearing only numbas, and women, topless in grass skirts, without any amenities from the outside world.  Another Kastom village, Ipai, is more colorful, and the “traditions” more modern, with emphasis on handicrafts, local dishes, and bush medicine.  There’s a waterfall/surfing beach tour, cultural tours of South Tanna, and one of the more unique tours, a boat trip up north to the Blue Cave pool, and a very interesting land cavern.  This was our favorite.  The shoreline all the way up is very scenic, and geologically intriguing.  The Blue Cave pool is accessed by swimming to the rock wall, duck diving a mere half meter (or just swimming in at low tide), into a gigantic dome-shaped cavern with a small round opening in the top where you see the green forest overhead, beams of sunlight streaming down striking the water’s surface, and aqua blue water below you illuminated, like a lighted a swimming pool, shimmering bright blue from the sun shining through the water from the outside. Magic!  The land cave appears as a giant black hole in the white cliffs from a mile off.  From the beach, you see it is an immense open cavern cut deep into the hillside, beautiful with the contrasting colors of light and dark, green vegetation and barren cliffs, bright flowers and somber shadows.  You must do this on a sunny day for the best effect.  Even with strong trade winds blowing, the shoreline is protected and the cave pool entrance was calm. 

There is interesting snorkeling and scuba diving (if you have your own gear) right in front of Evergreen along the drop-off of the shore reef system, or on the towering formations that create the isolated shallow reefs a few hundred meters from shore.

 

Aniwa:

We had a period of windless weather, so came here to help update the Rocket Guide by taking GPS points requested and investigate the area.  The anchorage indicated is 50ft or more deep, the bottom mostly hard rubble, any sand patches are tiny and superficial.  Since the weather was flat calm, we anchored on a dead coral plateau area, also hard rubble, but only 10-20 ft deep, put out minimal chain, since the anchor and first part of the chain would catch in the rubble and hold, then buoyed the rest to keep it from sinking and tangling on the bottom.  Landing the dingy is not easy any where along the coast from the anchorage to the lagoon entrance, as it is jagged rock with barrier reefs and rock.  We did find a way to get on the beach nearest to the anchorage.  There are some thatched shelters under the coconuts, and a sign in Bislama that you could figure out meant don’t kilem totl  (kill ‘em turtle).  We took the dinghy into the lagoon at high tide, where you can get over the barrier reef anywhere where it wasn’t breaking.  There is a small dinghy pass on the north side of the entrance for lower tides.  The lagoon is very shallow inside; we thought we saw a native rowing to us in his dugout, but closer, saw he was walking across!  Not much of interest in the lagoon waters.  The man walking was Miak (Mike), the manager of the lagoon area, who told us that anyone doing any activity in the lagoon area were supposed to pay 1000 vatu/person.  Money only, no gifts or barter.  If this fee was not paid, there was a fine, or if refused, they would “come take things from the boat”.  What a nice welcome…such a contrast to Port Resolution.  Why??  Because this is a Cruise Ship stop, and the ship pays the fee for its passengers.  We agree that they should, since they impact resources, make money from using these resources, and they should pay the villagers to build facilities and groom the beaches.  But because of this, the fee is imposed on everyone.  Not only that, but if Miak is not in the area to collect, you are supposed to walk 30 minutes to Isavai village (good luck to find the path) or go by boat on the outside (but the village is not visible from the sea!).  We elected not to go back to the boat to get money to pay the fee.  From what we could see, there was nothing special about the area.  It may be worth to pay on a cruise ship day when the villagers put on entertainment and sell arts and crafts.  The water clarity on the outside was great, 70-80ft, but the snorkeling was just so-so from the anchorage to the lagoon entrance.  

 

Erromango:  Made a good stop to break up the trip from Tanna to Port Vila.  Dillon Bay harbors the largest of the villages on the island.  The anchorage has constant swell, more or less exaggerated depending on wind and swell outside.  There can be accelerated gusts sweeping down the river valley.  The calmest place to anchor is on the south corner of the rocky beach, it’s all black sand bottom, and at least 20ft deep close up to the beach.  Those that anchored farther out and in front of the river mouth rolled a lot more.  While the village doesn’t seem to have much to offer, the people are nice, and two brothers especially, David and Joseph, welcome yachties, often coming out in the canoe to offer you some fruits and talk.  Yachts are often their only visitors, and much of the time, a source of supplies.  The Chief’s son said that his father does not want the people to beg, or ask things or money without giving things in trade or services.  We applauded this attitude.  Trading goods for goods is a much better deal for both, as what is small value for each, can be great value to the other.  David and his family showed us how to make lap-lap the Vanuatu traditional dish, and we showed them how to make poe, a Tahitian dessert using local ingredients. He, and others can organize a small meal or large “feasts”, for small prices or trade items.  Joseph, told us about a waterfall that he had never visited, but would like to make a tour for visitors to earn a little money.  It turned out a very feasible tour: less than 2 hr walk over flat ground, some shallow river crossings, passed gardens and wild fruit trees with stops to sample, passed clear deep pools, and only the last 10 mins climbing up a small gorge to the fall and large pool.  The fall isn’t especially large, but is pleasant and a nice picnic setting.  Joseph is a good storyteller who remembers a lot of history and legend.  For the very adventurous, climbing to the top of the fall, there are more pools and falls.  Joe, the chief’s son, guided us, in our dinghy, to some burial caves up the coast about a mile and a half.  After some incantations to ask the spirits’ permission, we entered to see many human bones and skulls.  One flat stone was used as the “death bed” for the dying. There are also “treasures”, possessions that were buried with the owners.  Joe and others are hoping for government funding or archeologists to come and carefully excavate and preserve these burial caves as museums.  There are caves further up the coast with ancient handprints painted or stenciled on the walls. 

 

Efate:

Formalities:  If you are entering the country for the first time, anchor in the Quarantine area (see guides for all navigational details).  The bottom comes up sharply and there are some very shallow coral heads 200ft North (left on arrival) .  DO NOT CALL HARBOR CONTROL, they will not answer, call YACHTING WORLD, 7:30-11:30AM and 1:00-4:30PM, (note: Vanuatu is 1 hr behind Fiji Time), the approved agency to arrange clearance.  Call on CH16 or 12.  They have a small yellow boat that may greet you and bring the Quarantine officials (Health & Agriculture).  No one is supposed to disembark before that.  Afterwards, you generally have to go ashore to Immigration to clear in (in town near the Alliance Francaise), and also Customs at the main wharf (Cruiseship wharf). When checking out of Vanuatu, you will be required to pay the harbor fees for the whole time you spent in Vanuatu (7,000 Vt/ 1^st month + 100 Vt/day afterwards).  You can land the dinghy at the floating dock of the Dive Center in front of the Nambawan Café, only long enough for you to get off and pull the dinghy out of the way and tie along the sea wall.  Please don’t block access for their boat or clients.

We have some good news for boats with pets that have been in rabies free countries for 6 months or more.  There is a Govt. Vet who, upon request, can approve your animal to go ashore on all islands without quarantine!  You must have all paper work to prove the animal qualifies and that it has a microchip or tattoo to verify it is the animal in question.  He will inspect the animal, give a parasite and worm treatment, and 24hrs (and 11,000vt) later it’s free to go ashore! If you are on the fast track and you were in countries with rabies less than 6 months before, it will be confined aboard.  Please do not raise a fuss or cheat because Vanuatu is right now in debate about not only confining animals aboard, but also confining the boat to certain harbors, as they do in NZ and AUZ.  That, and/or requiring a bond.  That means no visiting the unique out-islands.  PLEASE! DO NOT ruin it for others by breaking the rules, and the faith of the officials.  If you cleared in Tanna or other island, the animal stays on board til the Vet approves it.  We were given this info by the present Govt. Vet, Dale Hamilton, who will give us info to post on www.noonsite.com.

 

Port Vila:  LOTS of things to report about Port Vila, the Capital and principal town of Vanuatu.  Port Vila was a total surprise to us.  We were expecting something like Pago Pago: a WWII/Colonial village lost in time and left derelict with only some decrepit Chinese fishing boats listing at dock.  How wrong we were!  Port Vila is a modern bustling tourist town with a main street lined with Duty-Free shops, sidewalk cafes, a cosmopolitan collection of restaurants, and tourist activity centers.  It’s a compact town with most everything within walking distance of a dinghy dock or only a short bus ride away.  The fruit and veggie market on the waterfront has beautiful produce, lots of choice, great prices, and is open 24 hrs a day M-F, and until ~2PM on Sat. afternoon. There are modern supermarkets, as well as the Chinese stores.  The Bon Marche II, a 15 min walk up the hill has bakery, produce, deli, and meat counters and every food and non-food that you could want, but be prepared for Tahiti prices!  The beef of Vanuatu is fantastic, and reasonably priced; don’t buy in Fiji. It’s possible to get vacuum-packed beef that is approved for tourists to take back to Australia; perhaps it would be accepted upon entering by boat…something to check out. There is a large and varied ex-patriot community, which is reflected in the wealth of restaurants of every type…more on that later.  There are some very well organized tourist activities here too, many are culturally or environmentally oriented, but unfortunately, there are also noisy, gas-consuming, non-educational things which we feel is best left to countries that everyone is running to Vanuatu to get away from.  It feels like a boomtown that is right on the brink of falling into the excesses of modern society.  The indigenous culture of these islands are so rich and rare, we hope they choose environmentally wise growth!

 

Restaurants:  Although the prices to eat out are 40% higher than in Fiji, the variety and quality of the restaurants here are very good.  We like to explore and find those places mostly unknown to visiting yachts, but recommended by locals, or offering cultural shows.  Average price range for a restaurant with pleasant surroundings, tastefully presented food, and good service is between 1400vt-3000vt for the main course. 500vt-1000vt for first courses or desserts.  Soft drinks: 250-300vt, Local beer: 300-450vt.  These are some of the restaurants we visited:

Flaming Bull Steakhouse:  The manager, Joe, as well as the Chefs and personnel are all ni-Vanuatu (Melanesians).  Just past the Port Vila Yacht Club (not Yachting World) as you head out of town, the atmosphere is open-air, casual.  You can watch the Chefs at work as they turn out thick, tender steaks, and hardy portions of healthy vegetables.  My filet mignon, was an inch thick, and incredibly tender.  Save room for the Mango Cheesecake!! (Picture perfect, and to-die-for delicious!) 

Mangoes Resort:  about 1 km from town center, overlooking the Erakor Lagoon, this is a small, quiet resort in a garden setting with 2 fresh water pools.  Recently taken over by a young New Zealanders couple, Callum and Michelle.  With advanced notice, they will pick-up restaurant patrons in town.  The menu is what I call Nouvelle Eclectic Gourmet, the new trend of blending flavors and ideas from many classic ethnic dishes to create something entirely unique. 

Breakas Resort:  a mid-sized resort with individual thatched bungalows on a beach about 10 minutes bus ride on the Pango Point road, this is a great place to spend a day or half day by the infinity pool, snorkeling the reef, or lazing on the beach.  Diners are welcome to use the beach and pool.  And the dining is really worth it!  Try the Twice Cooked Pork and Calamari, and the Local Smoked Marlin with Black Olive Tappenade….WOW!  Be sure to meet Deco, an endemic brightly plumed lorikeet...What a character!

Iririki Island Resort:  The whole island in the center of the harbor is an ambitious development conceived by a large Australian group. There is a free shuttle boat every 5 minutes.  The dock is between the Waterfront Restaurant and the Public Market.  They put on a very nice Melanesian Show and Buffet on Tuesdays.  Kava Tasting starts about 6:30, then segues into the Buffet featuring many Melanesian foods cooked the traditional underground oven method.  During dinner, Islanders from Futuna, Fatuana Bamboo Band, play tunes on their funny funky flotsam instruments accompanied by guitars.  Really a great sound!  The dance performance starts about ½ an hour after the buffet opens, which rushes the dinner, especially if you want to take photos up close to the stage.  During the dance the hot food is replaced by the desserts, so one can’t dally over the food, or start eating late.  The dance and costumes are quite different to those of other islands.  The cost of the evening is just over 3000vt.  Mondays there is a native Snake Dance, which an ex-pat told us was the best on island.  The dance represents the Sea Snake so dancers paint white stripes across the body.  Afterwards is the welcome buffet; we only took a drink and watched the dance, but the menu sounded copious and varied.  Again, somewhere in the 3000vt range.

La Pizzeria:  A locals’ secret, offers a lot more than pizza for very good prices.  It’s just across the roundabout from the big Bon Marche II supermarket.

Coco Palms Resort/Wild Pig Bar: Their Chef was awarded Best Chef for 2006. The meat dishes show the Euro influence: Beer Marinated Pork Chops, Garlic Stuffed Sirloin w/ Whisky sauce.  Big portions. If you like Trivia Nights: every other Tues. at the WP Bar!

Kanpai:  Japanese with a wide choice of cold and hot dishes. Mami Kiyofugi, Mgr, has a very pleasant terrace with a small, lighted swimming pool, overlooking the yachts and Iririki Island.  Must be authentic, Japanese ex-pats took us there!

Café Deli: Deli style service, specialty foods pre-made by the house: quiches, lasagne, pizza, foaccias, salads, savory and sweet tarts, cakes, baked cheese cakes, etc.  Can buy their fresh curry sauces to take home.  Occasionally do a theme dinner night (Curry, Roasts, Morocan..). 

Peche Mignon:  Hidden behind wood blinds, across from the public market, this is a treasure trove of pastries, confections, rich and beautiful sundaes, and daily French-inspired lunch specials at around 1000vt.. Chocolates are made on the premises by a real French Chocolatier. Choose European pastries, or long lasting specialty breads (Sun.) We know many yachties that make this place a daily ritual!

 

Melanesian Dance shows and Feasts:  offered at many resorts, different islands presented at different ones and different days.

Iririki Island Resort:  Tuesdays, very nice Melanesian/Anglo Buffet, dance and entertainment by Futuna Islanders, indoors (3300vt)

Meridien Hotel:  Thursdays, Large assortment Melanesian/Anglo Buffet, dancers from 2 Islands, Banks and Futuna, outdoors under tent on lagoon beach (4700vt)

Melanesian Hotel:  Sun, Wed, Fri, Aussie BBQ buffet (nothing spectacular but the price is right), but great dance show: Malekula Is. Small Nambas (best) Sun and Wed, Futuna Island dance, Fri, poolside (1700vt)

Ekasup Cultural Village:  Fridays, Best overall experience!  Takes place in an actual custom village, traditional greeting with torches and weapons, many explanations about dancing, kava, food, and Futunans’ heritage.  Best kava drinking. Village-style underground oven buffet.  Lots of traditional dances. Before and after show entertainment by funky flotsam bamboo band and everyone invited to dance.  Very informative and Lots of fun!  Very well done entirely by Futuna Islanders. (3100vt, 1550vt child) See also tour section.

Vanuatu Discovery Tours: Tanna Toka Dances and Lap Lap Dinner:  We helped this community of very sweet people from Tanna to develop this program by giving ideas and gathering up yachties to serve as test audiences.  They perform dances from Tanna including 2 exclusive dances (by special permission) that normally are only performed at the Toka Festival once in 2-4 years.  Takes place in a beautiful natural lagoon setting, includes kava tasting, opening of the lap lap stone oven, the dances, and transport to/from dinghy dock.  They will probably always keep a special price for yachties, be sure to ask.

 

Activities and Tours:

Cultural Experiences:  if you don’t have a chance to get to the out islands, at least do one of these:

Ekasup Cultural Village:  Another worthwhile educational and fun experience from these islanders.  Our Guide, Zero was so cute, and as he guided us around to different stations in the forest, he explained ancient and current traditional skills, crafts and legends of their way of life.  It’s all done with humor and interaction.  Zero was astounded that I hit the tree with the arrow. So was I!  Refreshments and fun entertainment afterwards.  We highly recommend this experience. Phone: 24217 for direct booking.

Vanuatu Cultural Center & Museum: walking distance from Yachting World, it is worth visiting to get background info on Vanuatu. Don’t miss the sand drawing demonstrations!

Vanuatu Discovery Tours:  Run by Tanna Islander, Joseph, offers package tours to Tanna Island, or a round Efate island tour with a very well done cultural village experience, and interesting and varied stops with lots of stories and info given by the guides (ask for Aliks). (Yachtie prices)

Evergreen Tours and Mele Waterfalls:  Offers a variety of sight-seeing tours, and have exclusive rights to the beautiful  Mele Waterfalls and pools, which you can visit on a tour, or on your own (entrance fee 1000vt).  Also run by Vanuatu islanders, buses are modern and air-conditioned. (10% off – direct booking)

Ecotours:  Pascal, a Tri-lingual Frenchman, is energetic and enthusiastic about Vanuatu.  Easy walks or more active hiking, kayaking, or mountain biking through forests and village land, not available to any other non-tribesman.  Now a Vanuatu national, he promotes non-polluting, healthful activities that show you the natural Efate, seldom visited.  The waterfall near the Catholic Seminary was beautiful, and the water had an incredible clarity!

Coongoola Cruises:  If you don’t plan to take the boat up to Havanna Harbor, but want to see this beautiful area, have a relaxed beach day, and learn some stories about the small islands around, this is a fun day cruise, A bus will take you to the HH area, then it’s a short cruise to Tranquility Island and a great beach.  Steak BBQ lunch, snorkeling.

 

Adrenaline Activities:

Aerochute:  Motorized para-gliding!  With pilot, you take off, fly around sight-seeing the island and the sea or lagoon, or spinning 360’s if you like, or even take the controls as the pilot guides you through it!  It’s considered the safest of lightweight flying machines and one of the easiest to learn to fly.  After all, the parachute is always deployed and ready to bring you safely down at any time!

Buggy Fun Rentals:  We got a bunch of yachties together and went on the full day tour to Eton Beach via the old American WWII road.  A very nice French couple offer several choices of tours using their off-road fun buggies to “get off the beaten path” and see the back roads of Efate and have fun driving these sporty vehicles following the guide through the “bush”!  Older children were allowed to drive depending the conditions.  They also have tours combined with horse riding, kayaking, or walking to swim at waterfalls.

Abeseiling down Mele Waterfall:  For us fools who are not just content to swim under a 20 meter waterfall, we went with Edge adventure tours, and jumped over the edge of the falls!  Of course, it’s all done in perfect safety under the guidance of Troy and Zeak, and their assistants.  There’s an easy training session at a mini-fall, and when we all looked like experts, we did the “big one”!  It’s a lot easier than it looks, and doesn’t take more than normal strength.  Of course, all the prep and safety precautions by Edge made it so.  Great feeling of achievement for us folks who don’t even like going up the mast!

 

Services:

Yachting World: Besides arranging clearance for yachts, YW provides lots of services: see the always-happy Leimara to pick up your mail, drop laundry, arrange dockage at the wall or moorings, and more. She is a mine of info! There’s a fuel dock as well.

Internet:  Nambawan (#1)Café: wi-fi at the terrace and at the quarantine anchorage / Downtown Internet: quiet, air-conditioned / Cyber Village: across from Bon Marche II supermarket, best rates to call int’l via internet.

Computer Sales and Service:  e-Tech (opposite Waterfront Restaurant entrance).

Marine parts: Vila Marine: out of town, take bus, has basic marine stuff, or Port Vila Boat Yard chandlery has some supplies.

Shipping:  If you need anything shipped in or out, air or sea, parts for boat in transit. See Chris, the manager of Reef Shipping on the corner as you turn to go to the main wharf. manager@reefvila.com www.reefvila.com

Hauling out: Port Vila Boatyard : multihulls, and vessels up to 25 ton are pulled out by hydraulic trailer/tractor via a slipway. Medium yard, pleasant grassy environment, no security problems, prices comparables to NZ or New Caledonia, run by ex-NZ yachties, see their Silver listing on www.noonsite.com for services offered.

Adhesive Signs and Lettering: Top Signs, 100 meters from Bon Marche II, We had our boat name done here.  They can also do adhesive flags that you can stick to plexiglass, which will last for years longer than cloth flags. Our commodore flag is always out and visible!

Misc: Printing: Colorite Graphics (ex-Gallimore)

Flags:  Vanuatu Flags, all sizes: Paul’s Religious Gift Shop

 

Hideaway Island:

If you want to get away from the crowds of other boats in Port Vila, but still be close to town, a great alternative is Hideaway Island (Mele Bay).  It’s only a 1-2 hr sail in protected waters to a black sand bay with great holding in 10-30 ft.  Hideaway Island has some nice snorkeling along its reef, a marine sanctuary, and also home of the Underwater Post Office.  The American owners like yachties, and waive the 1000vt entry fee if you arrive by yacht to visit the island, which has a dive center, gift shop, and beach bar and restaurant (copious plates of hearty food). From the beach landing on the main island, you can also catch a local bus back into town, if needed, for 200-300vt pp. It’s also close to bus to Mele Golf Course, Mele Waterfalls, Benjor Beach Resort (good restaurant), and Island Dreams (kayak and good snorkeling).

 

We’ve discovered some opportunities in Port Vila, so we’ve decided to get a residency/work permit to refill the cruising kitty and have more time to visit the islands! But our next letter will cover our interlude in the Loyalties islands of New Caledonia next door.

This season (07) we plan to start a VHF cruiser’s net with some local businesses. It will be announced daily on CH16 and will run daily at 8am on CH 68. Join in if you visit Port Vila!

 

PS: check out our revised website for lots of technical & cruising info www.LSAC.bravehost.com

 

Commodores Luc Callebaut, Jackie Lee and Zoetje & Zenne, the cruising Schipperkes (have their own page on our site)