SLOEPMOUCHE --- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- Oct 07- May 08

Subject/ Area: Vanuatu – part 2: Central part

 

Dear SSCA,

 

After developing our video promotion business in Port Vila for the last year, we finally have some time to cruise again! Here is the info collected during our several 3-5 week mini cruises. As we wrote in our previous letter about Vanuatu, the ultimate cruising guide here is the Rocket Guide (www.cruising-vanuatu.com). With charts, aerial photos and sailing directions to most anchorages, you will have no problem making landings. CM 93 electronic charts are slightly off so do not rely blindly on them! Nor on Cruising Guides or our waypoints. This cyclone season (La Nina) was not the best for cruising around Vanuatu as numerous depressions passing brought us a lot of Northerlies, NW & W swells making most anchorages quite uncomfortable or impossible. Last cyclone season (2006 El Nino) was much better cruising wx!

 

A few General notes about cruising the islands:

Approach to Port Vila from south:  The Pango Pt lighthouse is not operational; so don’t expect to see it.  There is now a giant wind generator with a red light for air traffic about halfway along the arm of land between Mele Bay and Devils Point that may confuse you if you don’t know what it is.  There is a leading light into Port Vila.  If the light is white, it is clear to go straight for it.  If you are off the line, the light will be red or green.

Lumpy sailing is generally the case between islands. There are often strong currents running around points of land and between islands.  Can be very nasty in strong winds (may be even overfalls). Don’t’ underestimate.  One large catamaran trailing their dinghy for the short trip from Havannah Harbor to Vila broke the painter in big waves and the seas were so rough, they dared not try to recover it and just had to watch it drift away with the expensive outboard.  Last season three boats went up on reefs and were lost.  Always ensure 360 deg. swinging room at anchor and do NOT navigate at night and stand way off if you heave to.  The Charts are off in most places.

 

EFATE: Tukutu bay: offers a convenient anchorage just West of the infamous Devil’s Point. Waters there around can be very rough as strong trade winds and currents can make it quite choppy. If you want to take a rest before rounding Devil’s point (going to Port Vila) this is a good spot. The whole bay is pastureland with a few new constructions going on. Anchor in about 25ft between coral heads (17d42’58S-168d10’67E) favoring the East side of the bay.. good light needed to see the coral plateau that stick out quite a bit from the shore in some places.

 

Havannah Harbour: While in Port Vila, visit the Cultural Center Museum and find out about the Chief Roi Mata Heritage site. It may be possible for a group of yachties to pre-arrange a guided tour of the Cave (Lelepa Island) and the burial Site (Hat Island) while in Havannah Harbor.  Ai Creek: tricky anchorage in 50ft good sand with coral heads but the bottom slopes quickly to 70-80ft. Take your dinghy into the river estuary (at the point of land behind the moorings of Coongoola Cruises) and leave your dinghy at the bridge. Cross the road and walk in the riverbed for 30-45min. You will find several nice swimming holes and mini Jacuzzis in crystal clear water.

Matapu Bay: easy anchorage in good sand – stay in about 30-40 ft depth to not get too close to reefs ringing the shoreline. A short walk South on the main road will lead you to the American pool. It has finally been cleared after years of neglect. It is now beautiful blue and clear. Nice bath there!  There’s supposed to be a plane wreck you can see while snorkeling, but we did not find it. The Rocket Guide gives good descriptions of the other HH anchorages and activities.

 

Nguna / Pele Islands:  Anchoring near the pass between Nguna (pronounced noo-nah) and Pele was very nice in white sand between widely scattered, easily-seen and deep-enough coral heads in around 25 ft depth.  Even in moderate Northerly winds we didn’t roll too much. 

The snorkeling out from the guesthouse bungalows on Nguna was some of the most colorful and diverse that we’ve seen in Vanuatu.  You can ride the current holding on to your dinghy in the pass between the two islands.  Both have beautiful white sand beaches and swimming pool blue water. NW Nguna, Nawora Matua bay: We anchored here twice just for a rest stop without going ashore to the village.  If you use this, go in carefully with good light, because the chart doesn’t show there are some isolated bommies too shallow for comfort.  Bottom is coral and hard plateau.

 

Sheperd Islands: Tongoa : because of NW winds and heavy cross swells we were unable to dive the wall or to stay at Panita.  We did hide from a SW blow on the SE corner on the small plateau (25-30ft)of Ewose Island – was swelly but protected.  Very healthy corals – buoy your anchor chain if you anchor here.

Cooks Reef: we anchored (day) in the area described in the Rocket Guide in dead calm. Went by dinghy all around the outside of the reefs but did not find exceptional snorkeling or diving. Perhaps diving was better a long time ago; perhaps we were spoiled in other places?? So far we have not found any really exciting reef diving.

 

Masquelyne Islands (SE corner of Malekula):

We did a direct overnight passage from Port Vila to Pescarus. We made sure we would arrive in good daylight, as the approach is tricky due to numerous reefs way off the low lying islands. With good waypoints (Rocket guide) it is no problem as long as you can eyeball for confirmation!

Well-protected anchorage off Pescarus and the other 2 villages. We did some bartering for fruits (grapefruits, papaya, lemons, mini-apples,…) and lobsters. Being spoiled by many cruisers they were quite demanding but with patience and good will you can have a good relation). Local music, kava drinking, small resort aspiring to develop tourism there, … An unfortunate event over a year ago (the looting of a local yacht that went aground at night on the outside reefs) kept some cruisers away. Like often, villages are jealous of each other and each tries to lure yachties’ money and goods their way! We are all the same on the planet! Ask Kalo to show you the best snorkeling spots around.  There is also a giant clam and marine reserve they can show you.

We also anchored behind the reef (Mamu AB on Rocket guide) but did not find the good sand at 6m … must have shifted away and left only coral rubble!

We had quite a washing machine sea just outside those reefs when rounding them to sail to Port Sandwich. By luck it only lasted for 2 miles (seas and currents) and we had an easy sail the rest of the way in 20kts ESE.

 

Malekula:

We decided to go up the East coast. Our first stop was Port Sandwich. Definitively a good hurricane hole if ever needed! Altho a 3-mile fetch if the winds are Northerly. Majestic views as you enter. You have the choice of several placid anchorages with occasional breezes. Across the bay opposite the Ballande dock, you can dinghy into the river for quite a ways at high tide. Ask locals how to find the river mouth.  Too bad for the shallow bar at the mouth because inside would be the Perfect hurricane hole!  Snorkeling in the bay is not recommended because of low visibility and past shark attacks but it is nice and ok, on the outside of the bay around the Lamap area. Bread available at Lamap a nice walk away. A little depressing to see remains of the French pre-independence time … their level of life was better in the outer islands in those times with better communications, schools and health care. Banon Bay offers a great anchorage in normal trade winds with friendly natives. No fees, no begging.  The Chief of the small community near the beach can organize some very interesting custom dances for a group of yachties (the dances involve the whole community).  There’s also a pleasant little waterfall where you can stand under the cascade in the fresh water…about 20 minute walk away.

 

Epi:

Rivelieu Bay: calm anchorage as described in Rocket guide, good holding in volcanic sand 10m. The young chief is welcoming cruisers with fruits & veggies. River where you can do your laundry, but not deep enough to swim.

Lamen Bay: most popular anchorage on the island. Meet Tasso at Paradise Sunset Bungalows. He is a very nice fellow that organizes lots of activities for his guests. He often organizes a bbq or pig roast .We did a nice but long day hike to a large high waterfall (about 3h one way for good hikers). The transport to the start point of the hike was itself an adventure, with some great views of the bay and Lamen Is. His son Douglas has a small boat to go deep-sea fishing or to take you to Lamen island where the dugongs are staying mostly now. We were lucky to be here for New Year 2008 and the celebrations were quite impressive with bonfires lining the whole bay at midnight! Our older flares made for extra fireworks! The village had a whole week of activities. After a few days, the winds veered to the NW-SW so it was time to move to a better-sheltered anchorage. We went around the north of Epi and first checked Lemaru, a beach anchorage between the 2 north tips of the island. It was not protected as the wind moved to the NW so we continued down on the East coast and stopped for 2 nights in Mapouna Bay. Anchorage around 16d35’85S-168d12’66E in about 40ft of corals with sand channels. Dugout canoes came shortly after our arrival to welcome us and ask if we needed any help getting in. The Chief Pharmacopee invited us to his village the next morning. Little did we expect a royal welcome with flower leis, fresh fruits and lots of smiles of his extended family! Very nice to be genuinely welcomed. We’re glad we had some gifts with us to offer J

Having northerly winds for over 3 weeks, we also explored the South coast of Epi and found 2 anchorages in good black sand about 20-30ft: Kambokia bay 16d50’37S-168d28’20E and Sakao village 16d48’16S-168d23’06E. Both anchorages would be exposed in any southerlies.

 

Paama: Tahi anchorage: 20-35ft of good volcanic sand bottom. There is a wreck on the northern end of the beach (copra boat that caught fire in 2000). Small, shy, but welcoming community.

 

Ambrym:

We were lucky to anchor close enough to Olal to be able to walk to the new North Amvbrym Yacht Club and Bungalows. The anchorage is not mentioned in guides and is much more protected that the small exposed anchorage just North of Olal. We anchored with 6 other yachts at 16d06’6S-168d07’7E in Nebul Bay in 13-20 meters in black sand. From the beach there, it is an easy 45 min. walk past several villages to Olal, or a 5-mile dinghy trip best done only in mild conditions.  Ask Chief Johnson from Nebul Bay village. Chief Sekor in Olal has now a hand-held VHF so you should be able to hail him from the anchorage if needed to arrange dinner or custom dances. We were lucky to be there for the inauguration of the first Rom Nakamal … ask Chief Sekor to explain the difference to you. One young couple of Czech cruisers did even get a custom wedding while we were visiting. A memorable experience! Nice villagers here too J It takes a little effort, but to witness one of their festivals and Rom Dance is definitely worth it.  Unique to the Northern region of Ambrym, the Rom dancing truly gave us the feeling of stepping into a living National Geographic magazine.  There’s a long complicated cultural significance to the dance.  The high Chief decides who can dance.  Men pay high prices in pigs and goods for the privilege.  Some of the dancers disguised themselves with layers and layers of dry banana leaves and wore elaborate tall conical masks, the design of which is closely guarded by each clan and passed along to initiates who pay.  The masks are destroyed after the ceremony, which is why ancient masks that exist in collections are so rare.  The other male dancers were clad only in “nambas”, a woven sheath that covers only the penis and is attached to a wide bark belt holding it straight out or erect.  Women danced in grass skirts only.  The rhythm was primitive and compelling to the deep bass reverberation of a gigantic 3 meter “Tam-Tam” accented by the energetic higher pitched beats of smaller tam-tams and hand-held bamboo models.  The dancers sang and chanted and stamped, vibrating the ground around them.  This was the first dancing we witnessed where we could believe they were actually dancing the dance for it’s original spiritual purpose, not as a show to entertain tourists. Very powerful.  Pigs were killed and the nakamal was revealed with its painted “tiki” guardian, and giant masks.

            Back at the YC where burgees and flags donated by yachties gaily flitted on bamboo poles; everyone dived into the abundant “kai-kai” feast with the dancers and villagers. Chief Sekor and his village recognize the great resource that yachties can be to isolated islanders.  Don’t expect cold beer and watching the World Cup finals on the big screen at this YC, as there is no electricity yet.  Do not miss the Festivals each year in July and Aug.  In 2008: 22-24 July, the Magic Festival, and 20-22 Aug, the Back-to-Your-Roots Festival with Rom Dance. 

 

 

Pentecost:

Homo Bay: good black sand, 25ft good holding just South of the old pier. Chief Luke (son of famed Chief Willy who passed away in 07’) is as welcoming as his father. He believes in offering fruits to visitors instead of asking fees or begging! He knows that cruisers are helpful folks always ready to assist when they can. We took a walk (90min 1 way) to Ratap cultural village. Alas the whole community, but one, was gone to Bunlap for 100 days of mourning. No custom dancing but a nice walk back following the river this time. Nice swimming holes and a pleasant hike with Chief Luke.

Being here in April gave us the great opportunity to witness the famous Pentecost land diving. That traditional ceremony happens every year in April-May-June to start the yam harvest season and as an initiation ritual. Most of the ceremonies are only for the communities themselves but a few can be seen by visitors. They will put on a performance for a minimum cost of 30,000 Vt any day of the season, but for a group, or on a regular performance day (every Saturday), it will be about 8,500 Vt per person. Extra fees for video filming might be demanded.  This year there are 3 different towers for public performances. The tallest is the one near Pangi Village at the north end of Homo bay.  There is another near Wali Bay and one near the Airport of South Pentecost.  The confusing thing was that Donald Wayback (ph:38107) lives in Pangi, but organized viewing the jump near Wali Bay, and Luke Fargo of Wali Bay organized viewing the jump at the tower near Pangi!  Men, if you can, ask permission to go to the tower the day before the jump and see the jumpers preparing the vines and the platforms. Very interesting.  Women are not allowed to go to the tower until the day of the jumps and cannot go near the base until the native women dancers go up there.  Chief Luke will organize land dives at the tallest tower for yachties to view for 8000vt.

Wali Bay: We met Luke Fargo who organizes Land Diving shows for tourists (including cruiseships a few times in the season.) He is a great host running the Londot Garden Beach Resort (ph:38120/38444). With the first cruisers we saw this new season, we had garden visits, hikes to the hot springs and had a kava break (women allowed) and a meal. His whole family was very welcoming. We also were lucky to be invited to a double wedding in the village nearby with about 200 guests!

Martelli Bay: South Pentecost.  We had to shelter from a NW that came up while in Homo, so we went into this south facing bay.  It is very picturesque with wild tall cliffs and jungle on one side, and on the other, a beautiful gleaming green-blue church perched on a hill over looking a small inviting beach that is protected by giant rock outcroppings forested with trees and pandanus.  Steep jungled hills form a backdrop and reminded us of the Marquesas. We anchored on the side near the church, not getting any closer than 30ft depth and found good black sand unencumbered by reef, any closer, and the reef rises to just under the surface.  The bay is huge and there are many places to anchor. There looked to be a reef extending out from the rocky cliff area that separates the bay’s 2 black sand beaches. Anchorage:(16d00’4S-168d13’5E) From the church, there is a beautiful view of your boat in the bay, and from the anchorage is a view of the beautiful bay and beaches, and seaward, a beautiful view of Ambrym and the cone shaped Lopevi Island.  If the wind goes north or west, hope you have a chance to visit this lovely place.

Waterfall bay: You will see the waterfall as you approach the anchorage of the nice beach. We met Jeffrey who guides visitors to their two attractions: the Madiut waterfall (15min easy walk- bubble bath pool and big waterfall) and the worthwhile Rell Waterfall Cave (15min easy walk – waterfall inside a 2-chamber cave, bring a waterproof light). Jeffery and his community decided to clear a path and beautify those 2 areas for the pleasure of visitors. The 500 Vt fee can probably be negotiated for DVD or other trade items. A 20-min walk on the main road brings you to the High School (Wadi College) on the hill where you can buy bread loaves.

Loltong Bay: Protected from all direction but west. Calm anchorage in15-20ft of good sand behind the reef seen in the Rocket Guide aerial photo. Follow the alignment of the 2 triangular markers on the beach (70T) as you approach the shore to anchor. We found the anchorage waypoint in the Rocket guide slightly off, putting you in the shallow corals to the South of the sandy anchoring area, Beware. There’s not much room for more than 2-3 boats, and the transport boat uses the channel and lands on the beach, If you need to use the phone, you can use the public phone at Chief Richard’s. String bands can be heard by arrangement. No natural attractions were mentioned.

 

MAEWO: Asanvari: Well protected anchorage with occasional frequent rainstorms. We met Chief Nelson and his son Nixon at the well-known yacht club. They are welcoming yachts here for a long time and are well organized in doing so. A small green light marks the dinghy landing at night! A hydro-generator powers the village with 220VAC-500W so several lights ashore at the Yacht Club (cold beer, DVD movies!)  nearby houses, and in the nakamal where you will drink kava . We have been doing some hiking (with swimming in waterfalls and rivers) and snorkeling around the bay so we sleep well at night.  The waterfall does not fall right into the sea, but is so close, we enjoyed seeing and hearing it from the anchorage, and swam in the refreshing water everyday.  There’s another smaller fall up above the main fall. But lots of rain as Maewo is the wettest island in Vanuatu with over 4500mm rainfall a year! Luckily, we had no rain during our all-day hike to the “tabu” bat cave. Be careful not to slip on the muddy tracks! The first hr of the hike is a lot of climbing on sometimes-slippery mud, the second hr follows the river itself and there are several nice swimming holes.  Zenne, our 21/2 year Schipperke is getting used to hike, swim across river rapids, jumping from rock to rock in the riverbed!  You enter a long and big chamber, quickly in the complete dark, with thousands of small bats and lots of smaller stalactites hanging in places where rain drips thru the ceilings.  Take a strong light to get the full effect.

Nixon and his father are quite smart to realize the value of yachts visiting the otherwise very isolated village.  The village is one of the prettiest we’ve seen in Vanuatu, all natural thatch and bamboo, flowers and colorful plants all around and lots of space between houses.  They are welcoming, do many things, organize custom dances, hikes, dinners, laundry etc. for very reasonable fees.  From the amount of help and complements showered on the Chief and village from yachties, we can see that there is a special bond formed on both sides.  Unfortunately, their very welcoming nature is also the very thing that could bring big changes to their lives and create jealousies where before there were none.  There will be some rallies going to Asanvari this 2008 season with 20 to 60 boats.  Try to find out the dates and avoid if you don’t like crowds.  Also the anchorage is deep, 50ft dropping quickly to 70ft, on coral bottom.  

 

So far it is still only a rumor that the government considers extending the maximum length a tourist can stay in the country. (From the usual 4-month one could get up to a year (with various fees naturally)). But as we understand, no change has been made yet, so it’s still the 4-month non-renewable visa. To get temporary residency is fairly expensive relative to other countries, but for us was worth the hoop jumping. You might be lucky in the future to be able to plan a full year here as the cruising grounds quite warrant that much time and with appropriate planning and a good attention to wx bulletins, you can take advantage of the best wx for cruising during the traditional cyclone period … with several cyclone holes to take refuge in the few cyclone alerts you might get.  You may have heard that 2 cyclones passed thru Vanuatu this 2007-2008 season, which is true, but as most S Pacific cyclones, they were quite compact, and only Futuna Island suffered big damage, but Tanna which was close by got some blustery winds, that’s all and in Port Vila we had nothing much over 25.

 

Our next letter will cover more of the central and northern Vanuatu.

 

PS: check out our revised website for lots of technical & cruising info www.LSAC.bravehost.com

 

Commodores Luc Callebaut, Jackie Lee and Zenne, the cruising Schipperke (has her own page on our site)