SLOEPMOUCHE --- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- Feb 07

Subject/ Area: Lifou in the Loyalties, New Caledonia

 

Dear SSCA,

 

We took advantage of some unusual West winds (due to a depression passing under New Caledonia) to make a fast 200 nm passage down from Efate to Lifou, the capital of the Loyalty Islands, north of the big island of New Caledonia. The 20-30kts winds (with gusts to 40 during numerous squalls) splashed plenty of seawater on decks and we didn’t read much during this lively passage (The predicted NW winds would have been better!).

The ultimate cruising guide for New Caledonia is the Rocket Guide ( www.cruising-newcaledonia.com). With charts, aerial photos and sailing directions to most anchorages.  We also used “Croisiere en Nouvelle Caledonie – guide des mouillages” by Noumea Yacht Charters and the New Caledonia Lonely Planet. CM 93 electronic charts are slightly off so do not rely blindly on them!

In an effort to write more concise letters, some of the details of our visit will only be posted on www.noonsite.com, so download the Lifou pages if you want the full details.

 

Lifou:

Formalities:

A partial port of entry, this island makes a perfect stop on the way to Noumea. Be aware that you can only stop here if you have NOTHING to Declare for Customs. If you have animals onboard, guns, merchandise that will be imported in NC, you cannot stop at any other secondary port of entry until you have cleared completely in Noumea first! If you have nothing to declare, you can stop here provided than within 7 days you clear Immigration in Noumea! You could fly to Noumea to clear in or pay for the official to fly to Lifou to clear you in (you can share the expenses between cruisers).  As we were an unusual case, in that we planned to return to Vanuatu in a few weeks w/o continuing to Noumea, officials were understanding enough to make an exception, after an initial aye-yai-yai and discomfiture over something not “by the book” and a lot of faxing and mailing of paperwork.  After faxing all documents for the dogs, they were allowed to remain on board w/o quarantine as long as it was less than 2 months.

 

WE  (pronounced “way”) (give correct way point to find the entrance)

Well-protected marina once you have negotiated the zigzag entrance channel into the marina proper. Be aware there is no place to anchor outside, as the channel is used by ferries and local freighters that use the public wharf inside the jetty. The main town of We is very spread out. Hitchhiking is easy, and there are “buses” (look for the word “Navette” on mini-vans and buses (100cfp~$1US) in the We area. A friend of cruisers can be found in Edouard Katrawa who has lived 18 yrs in France and traveled overseas. He speaks English and Japanese as well, and knows just about everyone and can help get you oriented.<e-mail address>   Jean-Marc, the manager of Korail Alimentation (one of the 2 mini-supermarkets) was most nice and helpful in delivering our goods to the marina and in extending us wholesale prices on case lots. Korail generally had better prices than the other large supermarket.  Check out the low prices for wine, even with the duty!  We can recommend Aero Locations as a good car rental. All vehicles are new and delivered to the marina too. For less expensive, slightly less perfect, but clean and reliable rental cars, Loca LM rental agency is only a few 100 meters from the Marina gate at the Total Gas Station. They also allow drop-off at another location w/o charge.  Public phone-card phones are found in many locations, and there’s post office, hospital, pharmacy and 2 banks in town, as well as basic hardware and goods.

 

We decided to leave the confines of the marina to explore other anchorages around the island. With the trade winds, it is more pleasant to round the island via the North side. Easy 26 nm to get to the protected bay of Doking. (Jokin).

 

Doking (Jokin):

Anchor in 30-50 ft of white sand with tall isolated coral patches in front of the bungalows hanging on the cliff (just right of big cave in the cliff). DO NOT pick up the mooring buoy that a local may tell you is good.  Many years ago the province put in moorings for yachts in several bays, but never maintained them, ever.  The natives have since taken many balls for their small craft moorings.  We snorkeled on one mooring still in deeper water and found that the chain to the concrete block was totally rusted away, and only a thin line tied the buoy!!  There is a small concrete landing and path that lead you up the cliffs to Doking village. You’ll need a stern anchor for the dinghy. Nice snorkeling all around this coast. Good departure point for either Noumea or Port Vila.  Many of the cliff caves are sites of ancestral burial places.  It’s quite impressive to see the caves from the sea as you approach, and as the setting sunlight illuminates the deeper chambers and formations.

 

Baie du Santal:

We decided to anchor off the second largest town of Lifou, Xepenehe. (Chepenehe).  We had to tack the whole length of the bay to enter as the 25-30 kt trade winds made it impossible to go straight in. Good anchorage in 15ft sand with isolated coral patches (most are not dangerous, but snorkel around to verify) behind the protection of the cliffs (20d47’251S-167d09’057E). Good for easterly sector, but when it goes south of east, the swell wraps around and gets a little rolly. Small natural harbor for dinghies ashore just below the local bakery. Look for the distinctive small arched walkway.J Fresh bread nearby and also a mini-supermarket up the hill behind the gas station. Post office, medical clinic nearby, and a pharmacy at the end of town as you head for WE. Don’t be surprised to see a cruise ship (same Australian ones you saw in Port Vila) anchoring just north, at Easo for a day. Take the opportunity to see local dancing and music or shop for handicrafts at the Cruise Ship welcome area. The dance group, from Wetr, the day we were there (different communities take turns being the host) was an internationally known group that has danced in France, NZ, Australia, etc.  They were very good, and the songs and dance are different again from previous S Pac islands we’ve visited. 

 

Activities around the island:

The roads are all in excellent condition so this is the place to travel by car or bicycle to take in the sights and get nice photos. You can make a sightseeing tour of the island in a day.  The town of WE is in the middle. We saw several nice beaches and coastal areas, but missed some of the caves because they can only be visited with a local guide. Many activities have to be arranged ahead of time because the small number of tourists to the island doesn’t give them enough business to survive by tourist activities alone, or to justify a regular schedule.  Like Fiji and Vanuatu, the Chiefly system requires that you go with guides who have permission from the tribe. There is a tradition of “doing the Custom”, somewhat like the saivu saivu ceremony with Chiefs in Fiji, but in Lifou it is often not required if you are doing an activity with a guide from the tribe.  If you approach without introduction, the custom is to give a length of cloth, about 2 meters, and in it wrap some “gifts” as a show of respect.  There are a number of worthwhile activities and some unique natural features worth visiting in Lifou.

The CEMAID office has some beautifully made brochures in French and English.  The booklet “Walks of Loyalty Islands” is excellent and gives you all the info you need, including elevation gains and difficulty.  Be sure to ask for it. If you have difficulty contacting the guides directly, ask the CEMAID folks, as they know all the family members who can track them down!  All the following activities are in the brochures, and we give the local phone and/or e-mail if they are not.

Northern Lifou:

If you like hiking, contact Bessie, a minor chief of Hunete, who runs Lifou Nature. He organizes hikes of up to 2 days (sleeping near the beach or under cave ledges- traditional meals) with botanical & historical commentaries. We went an afternoon with him to a beach where turtles nest and sharks have a nursery, and had a great time. Bicycles are also available. Contact him 48h before so he can organize logistics. theophile@lagoon.nc

The Lifou Fun Dive center had just changed owners so we didn’t have a chance to dive with them. But we went with them take a look at the Luengoni Caves (in the southeast), that might be later developed as a dive site.

We rode our mopeds from here to Kirinata to visit their beautiful inland cavern. Marella, the daughter of the Petit Chef (minor Chief) took us on a 30-min hike to photograph and swim in the majestic cavern with huge columns, stalactites and mites, above and underwater. Fresh water, clear, and incredible blue colors. We were glad we took our mask and an UW light!

Another interesting hiking tour is with Antoine Geihaze, of Medehu Nature, Xepenehe tribe. You get to visit a small but interesting cave (of historical significance), see hunting techniques, coconut crabs and traps, and get botanical information. He also guides snorkeling tours (you could take him with your dinghy or just snorkel from the shore). On the first spot we went to, we saw more than 20 turtles, some times 3-4 at once sitting on small flat coral formations or swimming away… fair sizes too as he had promised! Apparently there are always tons of turtles of all sizes year round.  On the second site: a nice bommie coming from 50ft to the surface offered a photographer’s delight:  beautiful orange gorgonians, even a small red soft coral and nice overhangs! On the way there we saw a few small sharks and a fair size green moray eel. medehutours@yahoo.fr

Vanilla Plantation of Felix Bole: Community of Mucaweng. Felix speaks French and English.  His plantation is also his experimental botanical garden where he’s planted many interesting tropical species to see if they can be developed in Lifou.  He’s a personable, smiley fellow and entry is free.  He hopes you’ll want some of his fine vanilla to take with you.

Chez Fabrice Bole:  Fabrice and his family have a vanilla plantation, accommodations in traditional tribal huts, and what is called Tribal Welcome (Accueil de Tribu), which is really hospitality in the tradition of their tribes.  Even if you don’t stay with them, you can arrange to have a meal made with local ingredients and prepared traditionally in the Melanesian “oven”, or local style.  We visited his interesting gardens, but did not get to try the food, though we were told they do it well.

 

WE and Central Lifou (East Coast):

Local Meals: One advantage of French colonization has been the passing on to the islanders their reverence for, and presentation of, food. The “bougna” a leaf-wrapped package of yams, sweet potatoes, bananas, and other local ingredients, which is cooked traditionally over a hot rock “oven” is a native meal normally made on special days (like Sunday dinner).  Two places we went called “chez l’habitant” in French, are like the old boarding house idea, where you are welcomed to their home and meals are prepared home style.  But here, we were surprised at the quality of preparation and presentation of these meals.  As nice as any formal restaurant!  The following two were recommended to us especially.  The welcome we received was genuinely warm. They can prepare bougna, coconut crab, lobster, flying fox (fruit bat), wild pig and goat, given enough advance notice.  They can also put on feasts for groups if a bunch of yachties get together.

Chez Jeanette Ihage:  Luecila community.  Unlike many S Pac Islands nowadays, Lifou still has a thriving number of Coconut Crabs living in the underground matrix of caves throughout the island, so this is the place to regale your palate with the tasty beast without guilt of decimating the numbers!  We called ahead a day or so to give Jeanette time to catch and prepare a sumptuous platter beautifully presented with garnishes of flowers and leaves.  She also made us Noumea prawns cooked in coconut milk with sweet potatoes and bananas. It was wonderful!  Jeanette’s is across the bay from the marina in We.

Chez Noelly:  Between Jozip and Luengoni.  Noelly Kausuo is noted by the locals as a fisher woman and cook extraordinaire.  Only recently has she opened to tourists her talents as hostess and cook.  She and her husband are building a few local bungalows to welcome guests.  They have a beautiful setting on the windy coast, and on good days, dining is outdoors with the wild blue ocean as backdrop.  The table had fresh flowers, wine glasses, tablecloth and napkins!  The bougna was excellent, and a real treat was her appetizer of local cucumber stuffed with tuna that she caught, and handmade garlic mayonnaise!  Noelly is not listed in the brochures yet.  Phone: (687) 451270.  She can also set up transportation.

 

Central to South Central Lifou:

Vanilla Plantation and bush walk to cave with water hole:  Weniko Wejieme, Jozip.  Described in the Walks brochure as Grandpa Weniko, a grumpy, but mischievous old guy with plenty of stories, he is also reputed to have some of the finest quality vanilla in Lifou, and be the Johnny Appleseed of the endemic Lifou Palm tree, which is found in the interior of the island, but which he has planted throughout his gardens.  The waterhole cave is not as stunning as others we visited, but his plantation is just near the road and worth a visit and some beans to take with you. Next to the Protestant Temple in Jozip.

Jewels of Luengoni hike and cave visit:  Noel and Fernand Pea, Luengoni area.  The several natural features visited on this excursion were very photogenic and fascinating; although we felt that the walking could have been condensed and still take in the most striking attractions. Would have liked more natural history and local lore and less political discussion.  The cave with the beautiful formations underwater is only 5 mins walk from the road, and can be visited w/o taking the long hike to see the other sink holes etc.  Take mask and snorkel and good underwater lights to really enjoy the cavern. No way to get lost or stuck. 

Transportation: Joseph Forrest runs a bus service for the tribe with regular runs from Luengoni area to We.  On weekends and days off, he can be hired for an Island Tour or transport to different activity sites. Call:????

 

South East Lifou:

The Monument area at Mu and the Cliffs of Xodre offer beautiful sea views on a clear day.  You can see several neighboring islands in the distance.  We rented a car and Edouard, who we mentioned earlier, was guide and told us legends and history of the area.  It’s much more interesting to hear stories about an island, as well as looking at the scenery.

Inagoj, Subterranean Lake:  Stephane Hutihni, Xordre community.  We would have missed this fantastic excursion if we had not met Lilas Niypi from the Provincial office of Tourism (she works behind the scenes, not at the CEMAID office, which did not have the newest brochures when we arrived.)  She told us about Inagoj, and Stephane, who is newly listed.  He does these tours on Saturday mornings, as he has a regular job in We, but he can do tours on other mornings with advanced notice to arrange his work schedule.  If you’re fascinated by caves, especially those that have water-filled chambers with crystal clear water of purest blue that you can explore by mask, snorkel, and UW light to see the most beautiful formations, above, below, and all around you, you cannot miss this tour.  30-40 mins walk thru the woods, gets you to the cave entrance, then you walk in the cave about 1 km with flashlights, as Stephane enthusiastically tells you the significance of this cave to his tribe, and shows you exquisite cave formations that are so young, the calcite is still pure white and sparkling with crystals, then you arrive at 2 “lakes”, and go exploring the huge chamber with mask and snorkel.  Incredible!   We want to come back to do some underwater filming here.

 

Another depression developing near Australia made us scurry back to Vanuatu before the winds turned northward against us…our timing was perfect for once, had a fast passage and arrived between rains and before the wind switch.

We’re now back in Vanuatu to later explore the Northern islands. More later!

 

Commodores Luc Callebaut, Jackie Lee and Zoetje & Zenne, the cruising Schipperkes. < www.LSAC.bravehost.com >