========================================SLOEPMOUCHE ---

------------------------------- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- November 2000

 

Dear SSCA,

 

The Tuamotu are a great archipelago that you should not miss exploring on your way to Tahiti. Called “the dangerous archipelago” a long time ago could be misleading today! With the advent of modern navigation aids like GPS, better charts and good cruising guides, it is now much easier to explore them and much safer if you use all those aids correctly! What a contrast after the Marquesas! The water is so clear and the protected, non-rolly,  anchorages so numerous that it makes for much nicer cruising conditions than in the Marquesas! The inhabitants are open, friendly and generous (especially if you go in the less visited atolls, mostly the ones in the Eastern part, not spoiled yet with cruisers and tourists). If you like watersports, this is your kind of place! Excellent snorkeling and scuba in all the passes and along outside barriers, easy spearfishing, plenty of coconuts for water and meat.

 

Sailing thru the passes: we used the tide table method (easier than using moonrise and moonset) and it worked very well for us! We used a easy software for world tide tables and cross checked it with a copy of the French yearly tide table (we got a copy of 3 pages needed for 6 months, ask any dive center or SMA base). We found that in most atolls, you get big ‘cascarets’ (boiling cauldrons of water where current and opposing waves meet) sometimes up to 2 miles outside of the pass. We saw some French boats passing thru the washing machine zone and heard breakage of all kind! During incoming tide (between low water slack and high water slack) you will only find some small ‘cascarets’ on the inside. These are much smaller as the incoming current is not as strong as the outgoing current! Sometimes, the swell and big winds may in fact push so much water in the lagoon that you may keep getting outgoing current for a few hours instead of the incoming one you should get. The last 3 hours before the high tide slack seems to have ingoing current most often.  We recommend trying to time at least the entrance into the atoll.  If you do try a pass when there are large overfalls, you may be able to avoid or greatly reduce the crashing by going on the very edges of the rough water near the sides of the pass, but be careful as eddies can cause unexpected effects on steering.

Also, we have to hand it to the French, most passes and lagoons are so well marked with lighted range beacons, lateral and cardinal buoyage markers (often lighted). It’s pretty amazing to find deserted atolls so well marked!

 

Anchorages: Often you can find a suitable place to be protected from the winds, which come mostly from the East (this season we got more NE than the supposed SE!). Also this season, there were many lows that passed south of us between the latitudes 25S-30S.  This made for a lot of rotating winds.  The key to the Tuamotu is being able to hide behind motus or reefs, sometimes this requires planning if, say, you’re in a lagoon that’s 10 or more miles across.  If you want to avoid getting into a nasty or dangerous situation, you need to get weather charts, or long-range forecasts to warn you of approaching changes that aren’t mentioned on the radio stations or daily forecasts that just tell you today’s weather.  We took a beating that just resulted in a very uncomfortable, frustrating passage that took 3 days instead of the 2 nights and one day, we planned.  But that woke us up, and we made sure to get the NADI Fleetcode bulletins available thru the Ham Radio Winlink station in Australia (ZL1MA).  We avoided being in the wrong place many times after that, and made our Tuamotu visit much more enjoyable.

In the atolls the bottom is often sand with many coral heads that can sometimes stick up more than 15 feet from the bottom. Make sure you don’t swing on any of those that may be too shallow for your draft! Often, because of turning winds, your chain may get stuck in between those coral patches. A problem we had at the beginning was that following a period of little or no wind, our chain would go down vertically and snag on some coral ... when the wind picks up again, you end up having a very steep, short chain and a lot of coral grinding your rode. To help in that situation, we made up a technique that works well: on the last 100 ft of rode we attach 3 of those big plastic buoys, that you can find beachcombing or buy from local fishermen, one every 25 ft. The buoyancy of each (about 60 lbs.) lifts our chain off the bottom enough to clear the tall coral heads so we still have a good angle of pull and elasticity.

 

Snorkeling and scuba in the passes: always go at incoming tide as the water will be clearer and in case of problem you will end up inside the lagoon in calmer waters and not at sea! If you go at slack water (before incoming tide) you will have little or no current at all. You will enjoy all the coral and fish life in the pass. We enjoy drift-snorkeling hanging on to the sides of our dinghy, ready to drop the anchor if we want to stay in one place.  If you watch the locals, you will see that even with a good current running in the pass, you can find calmer areas or even counter currents on the edges of the passes in the shallow water.

 

Ciguatera poisoning:

Before eating any fish you spear; check with local fishermen about ciguatera! Every atoll, every pass and corner of a same atoll has different species that may be infected. It seems to change also from one year to another so no fixed rules here. Learn by the trial and errors of the locals! If they eat fish every day, they know the safe ones! We were told about 4 different tests some locals apply (rigor mortis, copper coin, flies and rubbing a piece on your lips) but by experience we know they are not infallible! Some test kits are on the market (Hawaii Research, California manufacturer) but those are quite expensive (2 to 4 $ a test) and not easy to find locally.  If you get a number of the following symptoms, you may suspect ciguatera: severe fatigue or heaviness in the muscles, itchy skin, nausea, or indigestion, hyper sensibility to cold temperature (seems to burn), ... Each atoll village has a nurse who can help you with medication. (Only symptomatic; there is no cure)  We were given Celestene, a glucocorticoid, and Vitamins B12 and B6 to help a mild case.  In very severe cases, Hawaii Research recommends intravenous courses of Mannitol. 

 

PUKA PUKA:

We sailed by the West Point (14d48’S-138d50’W) The French sailing directions indicated a possibility to anchor on a reef plateau near the village, but we didn’t see any way to anchor around the dock or anywhere!

 

AMANU:

Since we had little info about the pass, I heard traffic (in French) on VHF 06 and a local came out to pilot us in! It’s not that difficult if you get to the entry (17d50’S-140d51’W) and stay in the center of the channel. With good light you see well the right turn you have to make at the end of the pass! A huge mooring can be picked up in front of the village or with shallow draft you may get in the natural harbor. Unless you can get into the little harbor, the mooring can get VERY rolly as you’re on a lee shore w/ miles of fetch.   From the village, follow the edge of the shallows, and behind 2 sand spits South of the village, you will find a very well protected and beautiful anchorage in front of a series of motus (little islands)(15-20 ft, good sand, with isolated coral heads). The outer edges of the sand spits and fringing reefs are staked: easy to see in good light. 

Tautu & Hinano (the postmistress) welcomed us. Nice to visit an out-of-the-way atoll! (No stores, no bakery.)

Good spearfishing in the passes and on the isolated coral heads in the lagoon with no ciguaterra reported far away from the village! (We ate some delicious groupers)

Locals says you have to go to the star shaped reef in the middle of the lagoon (17d48’S-140d46’W) before you can claim having arrived in Amanu! We did go with Tautu and family for a day picnic and snorkeling and had a great time! Nice to have a local that knows the location of the isolated reefs even if they are pretty easy to spot!

Fresh fruits we brought from the Marquesas were so appreciated here!

 

HAO:

We entered the pass during ingoing tide with light wind. Coordinates entrance of pass: 18d03’90S-141d00’31W.

There is a protected anchorage just inside the lagoon E of the pass where you can wait for better light before proceeding inside the lagoon or wait for the right time to go out of the pass (18d04’31S-140d59’75W). It’s good sand with isolated coral heads and there is a very shallow dinghy-landing pier to go ashore and visit the point and old shooting range.  There is also an anchorage on the W side of the pass.

To go to Otepa, follow markers and sketches in cruising guides, with good light it is very easy, you could even sail, as isolated reefs are easily seen and far apart.

You can anchor N of Otepa town around 18d06’S-140d54’W. Good bakery, general supplies can be found.

Don’t miss a deeper incursion in the lagoon by visiting some pearl farm motus along the E side all the way to Nake, the abandoned village. Up to Tony’s farm (18d15’58S-140d50’07W) it is very easy; further on you have to really pay attention for isolated coral patches and just submerged reefs and mostly underwater lines holding the pearl shells (sometimes marked by buoys, sometimes not!).

If you are set up for scuba, you may help with some pearl farm jobs in exchange of some black pearls!

We stayed a few days off Nake, in a super smooth anchorage (18d24’S140d40’W) as it has little possible fetch except with a W wind. A few people live here from copra, fishing, and pearl farming and on Sundays, you can make the “fête”(party) with them. They were glad to show us around and to share their meal! We were perhaps the 10^th boat to ever have stopped here and we enjoyed the unspoiled contact!

A new scuba center is being set up by Laurent, Padi and Cmas instructor, with great dives offered in the pass. You can anchor conveniently in front of it, as it is located just at the North edge of the village.

We visited Hao just weeks before the Military Base, which was the support base for the nuclear testing on the Mururoa atoll, was permanently shut down, along with many support facilities, such as the electric and water making plant and hospital.  These are left for the territory to deal with.  The life on the atoll may have drastically changed since then, since many a livelihood depended on the Military Base.

 

MAKEMO:

Both passes are easy with good light. The pass at the village is marked for major traffic, and never seemed dangerous during the time we were there.  The West pass has a very nice protected anchorage in a little bay near a copra shed on the other side of the pass.  We waited out some nasty weather there.

The anchorage in front of the village is uncomfortable to dangerous in heavy SE winds and the bottom is mostly hard with many coral heads, so you either don’t hold or you wrap the anchor all around the coral.

Nice town with groceries and bread available, a hydroponics farm, infirmary, very comfortable internet access at the post office,

See Gerard the black pearl sculptor (unique art) and shell and ivory (whale teeth) sculptor for unique souvenirs.

Easy lagoon to navigate with few and well visible coral heads (in good light naturally) Always watch for pearl farm buoys even far from shore. Some farms west of the village may chase you away.

Nice motus to anchor off about 8 nm SE of village: deserted, clear water, well protected from E-SE winds, ...  

Good drift diving and spearfishing (groupers) in passes. Ciguatera-free at this time.

 

TAHANEA:

Very easy middle pass (entrance at 16d51’S-144d41’W), wide and deep. Of course, we timed our entrance.  We saw 2 boats make a terrifying exit in the middle of the outgoing current.  Good anchorage found just behind the right side of pass (10-20 ft sand with isolated coral heads, protected from N to SE).

Good snorkeling and spearfishing in all 3 passes and vicinity.

We went in the NE corner of the atoll to do some beachcombing, lobster hunting on the reefs at night (not as easy as some say!) and coconut crab (‘kave’) hunting, also at night (see natives for the method!)

Except for a few seasonal fishermen, the lagoon is uninhabited.  We were told that all the fish were safe to eat except a certain type of grouper, which fit more the description of a red dog-toothed snapper. 

 

FAAITE:

Easy, well marked pass. The described Outside anchorage can be uncomfortable with S. swell or with occasional W.wind and you anchor on a hard coral shelf.

Inside anchorage is not protected from East sector winds and is about ½ mile away from the village. The lagoon is reported difficult to navigate because of the numerous pearl farm stations!

Pass makes an interesting drift-snorkel on an ingoing current especially past the town pier and the fish traps they call 'Parc à poissons'.

There is a dinghy pass thru the reef that brings you close to the village in protected water. If you come from the anchorage inside, come back as if you are exiting the pass and just before you reach the town pier, you’ll see the sticks marking the channel on your left.

 

FAKARAVA:

The South pass is actually easy to negotiate and also well marked once you identify the entrance, and the right branch just after the Hotel bungalows and fish park is actually plenty deep also.

The old village at the South pass (very scenic and well maintained) is now inhabited by 2 families and a small resort. Local families also have guest cottages.  This area is much more enjoyable than the North, spend some time here.

Like in all passes, you can drift snorkel or scuba dive. The anchorage N. of the resort is choppy in NE wind.

The lagoon has lots of pearl farms lines but a channel is marked with green and red lighted navigational markers: sail in straight line from one to the next one you see ahead and you should pass clear of any danger (reefs and buoys and lines). We would still do it in good sunlight and make a stop in the delightful anchorages midway along the curve in the motu line before it goes to the E.

Rotoava village in the N. has a dock, post office, limited bread, groceries and the usual town things. Also a dive center is located in the new hotel abt 3 nm S. of town.

The North pass is well marked and straightforward and very, very wide.

 

TOAU:

Pass Otugi is straightforward and has range beacon way in the center that you can align to make your entrance.

Good comfortable anchorage off the motu South of the pass (as the charts and guides show).

Good anchorage in the NE corner of the atoll.  This atoll is intermittently inhabited giving a nice feeling of isolation.  In spite of the lack of human evidence, the sharks here were the most attuned to spearfishing than at any of the other atolls, where they seemed barely interested.

Anse Amyot: 4 moorings for yachts installed by the nice family (Taupiri & Rose, their kids Stellio and the others). They invite you to go with them in their activities (spearfishing, lobstering, kave hunting and more).

Spend the evening in their bar/restaurant playing bocciball, chatting and eating local dishes. Don’t forget to look at their cruiser’s guest log! No timing necessary to enter or exit this cul de sac pass!

 

APATAKI:

SW pass is tricky but not bad if you time it right and have good light! The two passes of Apataki are unusual in that they seem to be rough with overfalls on the ingoing tide.  The SW pass was worse on the ingoing current than the outgoing!

The little harbor mentioned in Charlie’s Charts exists but has a narrow entrance so we didn’t chance it with our 25ft beam and we are not sure about depth! Also you have to turn at a 90-deg. angle from the current in the pass so it may be tricky maneuvering!  Otherwise, there is no safe anchorage near the village in prevailing winds.

Calm anchorage in 25ft. of coral sand close to the pearl farms in the SE corner of the lagoon. We anchored in front of Alfred’s pearl farm (15d 33’S-146d14’W). The whole family welcomes you so warmly! They truly enjoy meeting travelers and you will be able to learn plenty about all their activities (black pearls, copra, fishing, vanilla cultivation, egg farming and more. We truly had a great time with this welcoming family! Fill their guest log!

Easy lagoon to sail across pass to pass or even diagonally with few reefs easily avoided with good light!  As always, keep an eye out for pearl farm buoys even in the middle of the lagoon. 

The NW anchorage about 1.5 nm from the NW pass is calm in NE winds but rolly in E winds and dangerous in S winds (because of the long fetch) as an US sailboat found out this season. You can dive on this 34-ft wreck in 40 ft of water in the indicated anchorage. Look for a coral formation on shore that looks like an anvil or ask local fishermen. And watch the weather so as to not suffer the same fate!

 

Next season, we will go back to the Tuamotu to visit Tikehau and Rangiroa; we’ll keep you posted on what we find. For the cyclone season, we will cruise around Tahiti and the Societies. Fair winds and calm seas to all of you! And do not hesitate to contact us by email for any questions you have.

 

Commodores Luc Callebaut & Jackie Lee

 

SLOEPMOUCHE --- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- September 2002

 

Dear SSCA,

-          After 3 years in French Polynesia, we still enjoy exploring new places. And now, since May 02, members of EEC can stay here for years without difficulties if they follow the proper procedure and non-EEC cruisers also have ways to stay here more than 3 months (see separate article in Around and About – Oct 02).

-          Do not hesitate to look for our previous letters for more info (Marquesas – on <noonsite> /  Tuamotus- (central) Jan01 / Tahiti & Moorea – Jan02 / rest of Societies – Jan03 )

-          Please remember that the GPS points given are for reference only, re-verify yourselves.

MAKATEA:

Hoping to break up the trip a little, and see a place almost no yachts ever see, we stood off Makatea in the night, for 6 hours under bare poles with a light wind, and drifted no more than 0.3 mi.! But only to find no suitable anchorage as it’s too deep to anchor, even close to the old phosphate pier! We heard of a small sailboat with 1 ft draft that docked in the small boat harbor there … but he couldn’t stay there very long because of surge. So, it was with regrets that we couldn’t land to visit the small community on the East side.

 

TIKEHAU:

                Very nice atoll with few businesses and not too much going on. The only pass, on the west side, Tuheiava, is very easy to negotiate when entering at slack water or with  moderate current. (15 00’S/ 148 17’ W) You won’t see the range markers until you are already well into the pass, so be sure to stay outside and go somewhat north of the pass, as the mid-line angles more from north to east than straight across. The depth looks shallow on the inside, but stay in center with good light and you will see your way. Right after the pass, you can find a small anchorage off the small village N of the pass, turning  only after well clearing the fish “parks” on your left. Can be surgey in strong E-SE, but is a good anchorage in N-NE winds.

A  marked (and lighted!) channel leads you SSE to the main settlement where you have a anchorage next to the town pier. It can be quite choppy in strong  NE winds so, in that case, you can anchor 3 miles away in the lee of a small sand bank at a deserted pearl farm (15 05’S/ 148 13’W). The village, Tuherahera (15 06S, 148 14W) was one of the cleanest, and most neatly kept we have so far visited. The local population is making an effort to keep it nice, let’s hope more places emulate them! If you want bread, you may need to wait til the sole baker gets back from his coprah plantation!

It’s nice atoll to visit, smaller than Rangiroa and with few tourists of any kind. You can find plenty of suitable anchorages:

 

Pearl Beach Hotel:  The navigation markers end at this exclusive resort, the only luxury hotel so far on the atoll,  the setting is idyllic, featuring all the classic scenery of a South Pacific atoll in one small corner.  The vibrant contrasting  colors of white sand, green coconut palms, gray thatched roofs, pink reefs, and every blue of water from inch-deep green to turquoise, to bright blue to royal blue in the deep drop-offs are the precious jewels that the guests pay BIG money to enjoy for a fleeting few days.  And we LIVE here as long as we like!  There is a dive center at the hotel that will also take non-guests to dive outside the pass. We did a dive featuring a vertical crevice that turns into a chimney  at 50 m. that re-opens into the blue at 70m.  Of course, the dive center limits the divers according  to their skill level.  The hotel does not chase away yachts, as does the Kia Ora Sauvage in Rangiroa, nor does it encourage us to visit or eat at the restaurant, as it is so remote, that all provisioning is carefully calculated and ordered from Papeete and brought from the cargo boat at the town pier in small boats.    

 

Three and a quarter miles from the hotel towards the east, there is a long reef that extends out from the end of the motu (15 04.6S, 148  09.2W) that can give you protection from east winds.  You can recognize the motu as you get close to the area as it is very compactly forested w/ tall palms.  Check out the snorkeling on the windward side of this long reef, and if you’re lucky, you may be rewarded if you take along your spear.  The people say that all of the reef fish are ciguatera free in Tikehau.  We ate the groupers they call Kito (a brown-gray mottled pattern) and had no problems. We were given a huge black jack caught by local fisherman, and we cautiously ate just a few bites the first day with no tingling or fatigue, and we ate the rest (fillet only, no ribs or collar) fresh, frozen and canned and had no problems.

 

We had heard from the locals that there was a shipwrecked Frenchman in the south of the atoll, and sure enough, about 2/3rds to the end of the lagoon, we saw a boat on the beach.  We anchored close by (15 03S, 148 05W) and decided to have lunch before going out to see this sailor, but in no time, we saw he had his dinghy in the water and was motoring to us.  We thought, ”This poor man, he must be starving out here!”  So we made extra food.  He gave us a big hello then excused himself because he thought we were the trimaran of his friends.  We asked him aboard and  offered him lunch and were astounded when he said “Oh thank you so much, but I have just had a huge brunch of leg of lamb!” And then he told us his amazing tale.  Sailing  his small boat w/o motor in the night, he was fighting  a strong SE and kept getting perilously closer and closer to the reef when suddenly a swell sucked up his little craft and  “wham” he was on the plateau of the reef.  He got himself safely out and to the dry for the night, and in the morning was smiling because he was saying to himself, “What a lucky person I am!”  He was saying that, not because he had survived, but because of the location where the boat had been thrown on to the reef!  His boat has no keel, and a draft of only 18”, and by the “luck of the Gods” landed on  the reef plateau in front of a  channel of water that separates one motu from another (an “oa”)....he had only to get his boat into this little “river” and he could float his boat to the lagoon inside!  And so began an 8-month endeavor!  This unassuming, modest man, begged no help, demanded no aid, but single handedly carried his balast, bar by bar 600 meters to the lagoon edge, spent, 4 months breaking a path thru the coral, then cut coconut trees and used them to roll his boat to the Oa, then using  the fortunes of weather and high tides, pulled his boat the beach at the edge of the lagoon, and started the repairs!  This man represented a lesson to all of us:  he was content! He lived each day at a time, he was going to fix his boat, he had gained the friendship, and admiration of the locals, and he apologized when he served us coffee, that he had only instant, for a Frenchman, a real cause for regret!

 

At the very E end there is a pearl farm/gardens run by a Chinese Christian sect. They will give tours and you may be able to buy or trade for organic vegetables. It’s good to see how they have made  the land productive. We anchored in front of some very pretty oas...you can find clear, warm water pools to relax in, or cross the motu and see Rangiroa across the way. (15 00’S, 148 03’W)

 

From the last anchorage you can see a motu inside the lagoon, this they call Bird Motu, where there are tons of nesting  birds, in the trees, this time. We made a quick day-stop then from there, headed on a direct line for the pass.  The path was free of reefs on a bearing of 248 T from the bird motu until about the last 2 miles where you need good light to see the easily avoidable reefs and to make a dog leg to the left to avoid a large shoal area just in front of the pass. It’s marked in places by sticks.  We glided right out the pass on a light outgoing tide easily staying to the side of the small overfalls caused by the current.

 

RANGIROA:

 

                This famous Tuamotu atoll is most known for it’s excellent diving! Despite being the most ‘touristy’, this atoll deserves a visit! The clear water is phenomenal! We recommend entering via Avatoru pass, as the few times we did look at both passes (at almost the same time) it was much calmer than the Tiputa pass. Both passes are wide and deep enough. Try to time it to go in or out at slack or ingoing current to have less current against you and calmer seas.

The anchorage off the Kia Ora hotel (14 58S, 147 38W) is quite protected (even in Maramu SE winds, if you can tuck in enough). Depths between 15 and 50 feet, good sand with scattered coral heads (watch out for chain wrapping! See our suggestion in Jan O1 letter). Can be dangerous if a strong South wind is forecast; boats broke chains or windlasses because their chain was in coral, and short-scoped. Easy access ashore in the little harbor on the west side of Tiputa pass. The road goes from that harbor all the way to Avatoru village, where you can provision and look at the beautifully decorated church (mother of pearl shells).

One store is located just off the Kia Ora anchorage: you can dinghy ashore and get your bread and basic provisioning. Or conditions permitting, dingy across the pass to Tiputa Village markets. The main activity here around the passes is the scuba diving (world famous). You can snorkel or scuba dive at the Aquarium (small motu inside Tiputa pass on the lagoon side), tie your dinghy to one of the numerous moorings placed by tour operators – (please respect their right to use their mooring when they need it!). It’s a perfect place for inexperienced divers.    

 The drift diving in the pass should be done by experienced divers with one of the local dive operators for more safety and fun. Tiputa Pass especially, can have some wild conditions (counter currents, overfalls, whirlpools) As dive instructors, and  former live-aboard dive boat operators, we saw that local knowledge of the pass was essential to exciting diving in safety. We had contacts with all the dive centers and dove with most. We recommend the following:

The Six Passengers: located in the Tiputa pass anchorage east of the Kia Ora, professional & congenial staff the6passengers@mail.pf.  With several boats and dive guides, they can set up groups according to experience.

Very good organization, briefings, and good equipment.

Top Dive: newest center, located just west of Kia Ora, professional & congenial staff (Eric & Stephane), The advantage of the 10-dive package is ability to use any of the discounted dives also at their Moorea & Bora centers! info@topdive.com.  Top equipment, thorough briefing with diagram of site.

Rangiroa Paradive: Located just before the pier, older center & equipment, nice people, lower prices, more for Europeans & experienced old-school divers paradive@mail.pf.

Blue Dolphin: in the Kia Ora Hotel, cater to hotel guests mainly and cruisers only if space available, mixed gas & rebreather classes

Ray Manta club: we had poor rapport with them, difficult to contact, located in Avatoru, the oldest center but perhaps a “has-been”?  Were unable to set up a dive with them.

Dream Dive: looks like it would close down soon, no compressor, no boat, did subcontract with other centers.

For a private dive guide on your boat, contact Atelier Corinne <jjaog@mail.pf> For a daily fee, he will guide you thru Rangiroa and other islands of French Polynesia, as he does from time to time on megayachts. 

The dives?? Dolphins, Manta rays, all type of sharks, Napoleon wrasse, turtles, maybe a marlin or swordfish, and tons of fish in a swirling current is what you may expect. Do not miss!

If you didn’t visit a black pearl farm: you should visit the Gauguin’s Pearl. It is a school and thus can show you all year long all the phases of the black pearl industry. The tour is free. <phcab@mail.pf>

 

Now, if you have more time, you can sail everywhere in the lagoon if you use changing winds to your advantage. It’s essential to have good weather bulletins, and forecasts. (as anywhere in the Tuamotus). We sailed and anchored in about 10 places in the lagoon, getting wx forecast daily to try to anticipate which side would be sheltered. We went in whatever direction the sailing was best, tacking comfortable tacks, and then went in close to shore  found a  good depth,  a good, large-as-possible sand patch, and  anchored , explored, and spent the night.  In general, the lagoon is relatively free of hazards, the reefs are easily seen in good light. There are some especially good spots which we’ll describe:

Sable Rose (Pink Sands): (15 16’S, 147 14’W) this anchorage is a classic, located in the SE corner of the atoll, you anchor in good sand facing the bank of  pink sand that has emerged from the sandy shallows all around. You can carefully motor, paddle, then tow your dinghy as close as you can to 2 small forested motus, with tons of birds “nesting” (just laying the egg in the sand or coral rubble). From the same anchorage you can take the dinghy thru oas to the very SE corner and beach comb after crossing the wide motu. Some great pools in the shallows of the plateau.

In the NE corner you’ll  see the only habitations in the area. (15 14S, 147 15W) There is one family living here year-round, Papa and Mama “Marama”, and daughter, Leivana. Believe it or not, they make necklaces from shells mined out of the ground, not just from the sea.  This labor intensive activity is a family tradition, and we could never guess the work involved to get, and prepare these tiny yellow, orange, and rose colored shells.  These people are so welcoming and love to see people.  Take your bug juice tho, there are no-nos.

Old village with cistern: (15 18S, 147 28W)

Sand bank, with great snorkelling on the coral heads, colors like aquarium. (15 13.1S, 147 40.2W)

Super Oas : (15 14.1S, 147 42.5W)Can take the dinghy up the little “jungle river” oa and it connects into the big oa. The water in the oas are crystal clear, super snorkeling. Walk toward the outer reef and pass through fantastic Maketea formations (fossilized coral ) eroded into jagged gothic castle-like apparitions, like something out of an Edgar Allen Poe tale. The razor-sharp edges form a kind of deadly lace, as you delicately wend your way to the reef as if running the gauntlet! And between, the “moats” of crystal water create mini waterfalls and blue pools as the surging waves .push their way thru from the large flat plateau of the barrier reef.  The pink color of the reef is surprising and beautiful. There are white/pink sand beaches to the east as you continue following the reef. And more great oas.

From the Super Oas to the Lagon Bleu, the waters are shallow 12ft-30ft, and you have to be more attentive to dodge reefs, but we had the best trolling on this leg, bagging 2 nice blue speckled Jacks, that the locals told us were ciguatera free. 

Lagon Bleu:  Must have perfect wx to go here otherwise 40 mi of fetch from an E wind can be a killer.  We had the chance so we HAD to see it. This is a tourist attraction, and many day boats stay til 2PM or so.  After, you have the place to yourselves.  There is dinghy access to one of the picnic motus, but the lagoon itself is closed off by sand...in effect, a lagoon w/in a lagoon.  If you had kayak or windsurfer, you could explore, otherwise, you see it better in an aerial photo on a postcard.

 

Rangiroa is worthy of all the hype it gets.  The waters are crystalline, diving exciting, exploring easy and varied, scenery, a living photo.  We think it’s worth more than just a quick stop over.  Hope this letter tempts you.

And remember to let the local businesses that you patronize know that you are a cruiser, so they realize our impact on the local economy! Each of us gives an image of cruisers to the local population! We are truly ambassadors for future cruisers passing thru!

 

PS:  2 months after getting back to Tahiti, the shipwrecked sailor from Tikehau sailed into the anchorage on his little boat, and offered us a bottle of  whiskey, for the tools we gave him!!

 

Commodores Luc Callebaut, Jackie Lee and Zoetje